Anarkali Dress Drafting (with U skirt)

Anarkali Dress Blouse Drafting

Drafting Instructions:
(Bodice) 
A-F = Waist length, join A to F   
A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼” (dont add ¼” if back neck is deep)
A-C = ¼th bust – 1” 
B-D = A-C 
Square down A,B,C,D 
C-E = ¼th Bust + 1” for ease (1/2" to 1" as per fitting requirement), join C to E.
F-G = ¼th Waist + 1” for ease (1/2" to 1" as per fitting requirement), join F-G 
Join E-G , allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)
F – F1 and G – G1 = 2” , join F1- G1, if you want the panels to start above waistline. 
Take 1/2" in from G1 and join F1 to G1 with a curve shape. 

X = Bust point (10" avg) (measure from mid shoulder to mid bust) 

(Neckline)

A – H = 1/12th bust

A – L = back neck depth 2” - 4” , shape H – L with a round curve

A – L1 = front neck depth 5” – 7” , shape H – L1 with a neckline of your choice

(Armholes)

B – I = ½” , join H – I

Mark point J in the middle of B- D, joint I,J,E  with a curve line for back armhole

Mark point K ½” in from J, joint I,K,E  with a curve line for front armhole

(Sleeves) 

A-B = Sleeve length on fold + 1” for hem
A-C = 1/4th bust – 1” (same as kameez A-C)
B-D = A-C and C-D = A-B, Square down A,B,C,D.
C-E = 1/12th Bust +1” (Std) or 3.5"
Join A - E with slant line.
 B-F = Wrist girth 
Join B-F with straight line.
Join E-F with a slant line.
Allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)

Mark point H in the middle of A-E on slant line.
Mark point G in the middle of A-H on slant line.
Mark point I in the middle of H-E on slant line.
Mark point K 1/2" away from H for back armhole.
Mark point J 1/2" away from G for front armhole.
Mark point L 1/2" away from I for front armhole. 
For Back armhole join A,K,E with a curved line.
For Front armhole join A-J-K-L-E with "S" shape curved line.

Anarkali Dress Skirt Drafting:

Material required- Free flowing 3 meter - 60" wide (no joint) 

Fold the material to 45 degree like shown in the diagram. 

Step 1. Measure and mark the waistline on folded side (same as bodice) D-E

Step 2. Measure from the top point A till the waistline mark E. Now mark it all around till the other end D (it should be equal)

Step 3. Measure and mark the length on folded side E -F, and mark it all around till the other end B (it should be equal). If it is chiffon fabric less 1.5" from folded side till middle, or less 1/4" at every 5" till the end B.

ie Flare : FL 45 - 13 body = 32 + 1 seam = 33" 
ie Body : 13 + 1 seam = 14"
 
*Always hold the tape on point A