Kameez Drafting (with darts)

Kameez Drafting

(Outline)

A-J = Fold full length of kameez +1” for hem, join A to J

A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼” (dont add ¼” if back neck is deep)

A-C = ¼th Bust – 1”

B-D = A-C

Square down A,B,C,D

C-E = ¼th Bust + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join C to E

A – F = Nape to waist (see how to take body measurements)

F – G = ¼th waist + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement) OR 1/4th waist + 1/2" for ease + 1/2" for darts.   
F – H = 7” Standard.

H – I = ¼th hip + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join H-I

J – K = H – I, join J to K for straight kameez.

Join E,G,I,K with a curve at waist, allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line) 
J1- K1 = A line kameez width (as per requirement) Join J1 to K1 and I to K1. 

S = Bust point (10" avg) (measure from mid shoulder to mid bust)

(Armholes)

B – L = ½” , join L – P

Mark point M in the middle of B- D, joint L,M,E  with a curve line for back armhole.

Mark point N ½” in from M, joint L,N,E  with a curve line for front armhole.

(Neckline)

A – P = 1/12th bust

A – Q = back neck depth 2” - 4” , shape L – M with a round curve

A – R = front neck depth 5” – 7” , shape L – O with a neckline of your choice

(Darts)

F  - T = 1/12th bust + ½”, bust line is in line with your back of neck

Dart length should be 5” on both the sides from point T

Dart width should be 1” on both the sides from point T

Sleeves:

A-B = Sleeve length on fold + 1” for hem
A-C = 1/4th bust – 1” (same as kameez A-C)

B-D = A-C and C-D = A-B, Square down A,B,C,D.
C-E = 1/12th Bust +1” (Std) or 3.5"

Join A - E with slant line. 
 B-F = Wrist girth 

Join B-F with straight line.
Join E-F with a slant line.
Allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line) 

Mark point H in the middle of A-E on slant line. 
Mark point G in the middle of A-H on slant line.
Mark point I in the middle of H-E on slant line. 
Mark point K 1/2" away from H for back armhole. 
Mark point J 1/2" away from G for front armhole.
Mark point L 1/2" away from I for front armhole. 
For Back armhole join A,K,E with a curved line.
For Front armhole join A-J-K-L-E with "S" shape curved line. 

Sewing Instructions:

·         Stitching neckline- as explained in how to prepare neckline facings.

·         Stitch darts and fasten the threads at both the ends.

·         Stitch both the sleeve ending.

·         Stitch both the shoulders together leaving 1/2" for seam.

·         Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, take care to pin front side of sleeve to front side of arm and back accordingly, then machine stitch them together.

·         Draw a curve line from the sides of sleeves till the point where the slit starts, stitch on the curve line, make a little nip at the waist for better shape.

·         Turn the slits inside and stitch.

·         Stitch the bottom of the kameez. 

Note: Remember to finish all the seams to prevent fabric from fraying. If you don’t have interlocking feature in your machine you can use zig zag stitch for interlocking.

Tip: Sewing sleeves can be quite fiddly (because of its shape and bias cut) if you are new to sewing but make a best use of your fingers and try to manipulate the fabric while sewing for a perfect fit, you will get better with practice!