Panel Cut Salwar Drafting (Kalidar Salwar)

Kalidar Salwar Drafting

Instructions for drafting:

Waist piece-2 nos

A-B = 1/6^th hips + 2”

A-C = 1/4^th hips + 1”

B-D = same as A-C

square down A,B,C,D

Side piece-2 nos (on fold)

A-B = full length less waist piece

A-C = ½ hips

B-D = same as A-C

square down A,B,C,D

Kali-4 nos

E-F = same as A-B

E-G = ½ hips + 4-8" for pleats as required

F-H = same as E-G

Square down E,F,G,H

G-J= 1/4^th hips

G-I= ½”

F-K= 3”

join I-J and J-K

Figure 2

Stitching

Join the kalis with side piece.

When sewed together one salwar leg/paicha will look like figure 2, stitch the other leg/paicha same way.

Then stitch both the leg/paicha bottoms, use thick interfacing/canvas inside.

Join both the waist pieces together then fold 1” in for nari.

Join both the leg/paicha seams (I-J pieces) together.

Attach the waist piece to leg/paichas by taking big pleats – the pleats should start from the center and should face each other at start. See stitched salwar pleatsas in figure 3.

Finally stitch the full leg/paichas by starting from one end of the leg/paicha and finishing to the other.