Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Princess Cut Blouse Drafting

Drafting Instructions:
A-F = fold full length of blouse +1 ½” , join A to F
A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼”
(Tip: add ¼" to the shoulder if you have halter/collar neck or you will feel tightness and less ¼" if your neck is deep from backside or your shoulders will drop)
A-C = ¼th bust – 1”
B-D = A-C
Square down A,B,C,D
C-E = ¼th bust + 1” for ease, join C to E
F-G = ¼th waist + 1” for ease, join F to G
Join E-G, allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)  
N = bust point (10” avg.) from mid shoulder to mid bust.
Join point K to point N with a curved line.
Join point N to point M with a straight line.
Separate the front part in to two portions by cutting along the curves K,N,M.

A – H = 1/12th bust
A – L = back neck depth 1” - 6” , shape H – L with a round curve
A – L1 = front neck depth 5” – 6” , shape H – L1 with a neckline of your choice

B – I = ½” , join H – I
Mark point J in the middle of B- D, join I,J,E with a curve line for back armhole
Mark point K ½” in from J, joint I,K,E with a curve line for front armhole

(Button Stand)
Cut along the line L1 - F for front opening OR L - F for back opening.   
Length = L1 – F + ½” (2 pieces) OR Length = L – F + ½” (2 pieces)
Width = Right side 2” , Left side 2½”

See Kameez with Darts

Stitching Instructions:
Join the front pieces together to make a princess-line, make sure you finish the seam nicely and iron to give it a neat look.
Stitch neckline- as explained in how to prepare neckline facings.
Stitch button stants on both sides, right side should overlap the left side.
Hem both the sleeve ending.
Join both the shoulders together.
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, take care to pin front side of sleeve to front side of arm and back accordingly, then machine stitch them together.
Draw a curve line from the sides of sleeves till the end of the blouse, stitch on the curve line. 
Hem the lower edge of the blouse.
Finally sew hooks on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing.


  1. Eagerly waiting for instructions!

  2. issi blouse ke neeche hum panels stitch karke panels dress with princess cut bana sakte hai .......... aap bahot talented hai ....... shukriya itne acche kaam ka...........

  3. can u please tell how to attach padding to the blouse?

  4. you cannot attach paddding to princess cut blouse.

  5. Hi, can you please tell me how much seam allowance to give after drafting the above pattern? I looked through the instructions many times but no mention of it. Great tutorial and blog by the way :)

    1. Hi, usually 1" seam allowance is required, you can increase or decrease it as required.

  6. Gazal great work with the upload..thank you for being so generous!!

  7. How can you prevent the shoulder from dropping? The back neck is not very low but the shoulder always drops and the neckline does not look neat! Appreciate a reply!

    1. you can deduct 1/4th" from the shoulders to stop them from dropping. for a neat neckline check my post on how to prepare neckline facings. hope that was helpful.

  8. hi.... this blog is awsome but can you plese post the kalidar shalwar done pic....n also patiyala shalwar full stitchng method... as soon as possible...

  9. N - the bust point of avg 10" should be measured from bottom or the neck line??? kindly reply.

    1. It should be measured from mid shoulder to middle of bust.

  10. Hello, your explanations are lovely but how to take the point N? i mean from where should i measure 10", from bottom or neck line?? please reply.

  11. Thank you for this fab tutorial. I was trying to do this but got stuck at point N... I am unable to figure out how we measure point N. Though you have mentioned its average 10" I am not sure from where it starts.

    1. Hi, it should be measured from the middle of the shoulder.

  12. hey can u please tell me how cut the same pattern with buttons on front?

    1. It is possible to have a front opening (cut in the middle, finish seams and stitch buttons) but in princess cut it is usually made back opening for better shape.

  13. is it possible to provide buttons on front for this pattern if yes, then how?

  14. Dear Gazal,

    Thank you so much for such detailed instructions, I am just struggling with one thing.. Do we treat M to N and K to N like a dart and add the half inch dart as in the other saree pattern?

    1. You have to cut along the line KNM, then stitch back and finish the seam.

  15. Excellent tutorial can u please post tutorial for katori blouse


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