Thursday, 27 November 2014

Saree Boluse Drafting (Single Katori)

Katori Blouse Drafting
A-F = Back side, Full length of blouse (on fold) +1”, join A to F.
A-F = Front side, Full length of blouse (on fold) + 2”, join A to F, cut along the line.

A-B = ½ shoulder. 
Tip: add ¼" to the shoulder if you have halter/collar neck or you will feel tightness and less ¼" if your neck is deep from backside or your shoulders will drop.

A-C = ¼th bust - 1” OR 1/2 actual armhole.

B-D = A-C

Square down A,B,C,D

C-E = ¼th bust + 1” for ease, join C-E

F-G = ¼th waist + 1/2” front seam allowance, join F-G

Join E-G, allow 1" side seam allowance.

A – J = 1/12th bust or 3" std
A – N = back neck depth 3”-8” , shape J – N with a round curve
A – O = front neck depth 5”-8” , shape J – O with a neckline of your choice

K 1/2" away from point B, join J and K
L is in the middle of B- D, joint K,L,E with a curve line for back armhole
M is ½” in from L, joint K,M,E with a curve line for front armhole

(Yoke Patti and Dart and Katori)
F-H = 4”
G-I = 3” 
Join H to I with a curved line.
P is the Bust point, A-P = BP
P-P1 = 1/12th bust + ¾” (avg 3½”)
H-H1= P-P1
Join H1-P1 with straight line and mark 1/3rd” on each side, then join with sloppy line.
J-Q = 4.5-5"
I-R = 2"
D-S - 2"
Join Q-S-R with a curve line for katori.

(Button Stand or Button Patti)
Cut along the line O - F for front opening.
Length = O – F + 1” (2 pieces) 
Width = Eye patti for right side 3” , Hook patti for left side 2”

See Kameez with darts

(Cutting the draft) 
Cut all the pieces on marked lines, except back piece side seam cut straight it will allow extra fabric for drats. 
After cutting the katori and side pieces you need to increase its size by 1/4" to accommodate seams. You can do this by tracing and cutting it again on the paper or directly on fabric. 
Note: Cut katori such as it should have equal amount of fabric at both sides of the dart.

Tip: Cutting katori on bias fabric gives good fitting.

After cutting yoke part cut 2 more pieces, total 4 pcs of yoke patti. 

Tip: Using fine interfacing in yoke patti gives better fitting.

Sew darts and fasten the threads at the ends.
Join katori with side piece.
Sew yoke patti together and join it with blouse. (use light interfacing inside)
Sew front button pattis, eye patti at right and hook patti at left. Right side should be folded inside and hemmed, left side should be extension, right side should overlap the left side.
Sew/Hem bottom back patti, fold in. 
Sew shoulders.
Sew bias piping around neckline .
Sew/Hem sleeve endings and join sleeves.
Sew side seams.
Finally sew eyes and hooks on button patti and done!


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