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Kalidar Salwar Drafting |
Instructions for drafting:
Waist piece-2 nos
A-B = 1/6th hips + 2”
A-C = 1/4th hips + 1”
B-D = same as A-C
square down A,B,C,D
Side piece-2 nos (on fold)
A-B = full length less waist piece
A-C = ½ hips
B-D = same as A-C
square down A,B,C,D
Kali-4 nos
E-F = same as A-B
E-G = ½ hips + 4-8" for pleats as required
F-H = same as E-G
Square down E,F,G,H
G-J= 1/4th hips
G-I= ½”
F-K= 3”
join I-J and J-K
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| Figure 2 |
Stitching
Join the kalis with side piece.
When sewed together one salwar leg/paicha will look like figure 2, stitch the other leg/paicha same way.
Then stitch both the leg/paicha bottoms, use thick interfacing/canvas inside.
Join both the waist pieces together then fold 1” in for nari.
Join both the leg/paicha seams (I-J pieces) together.
Attach the waist piece to leg/paichas by taking big pleats – the pleats should start from the center and should face each other at start. See stitched salwar pleatsas in figure 3.
Finally stitch the full leg/paichas by starting from one end of the leg/paicha and finishing to the other.
