Wednesday, 10 August 2011

Kameez Drafting (with darts)

Kameez Drafting

A-J = Fold full length of kameez +1” for hem, join A to J
A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼” (dont add ¼” if back neck is deep)
A-C = ¼th Bust – 1”
B-D = A-C
Square down A,B,C,D
C-E = ¼th Bust + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join C to E
A – F = Nape to waist (see how to take body measurements)
F – G = ¼th waist + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement) OR 1/4th waist + 1/2" for ease + 1/2" for darts.   
F – H = 7” Standard.
H – I = ¼th hip + 1for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join H-I
J – K = H – I, join J to K for straight kameez.
Join E,G,I,K with a curve at waist, allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line) 
J1- K1 = A line kameez width (as per requirement) Join J1 to K1 and I to K1. 
S = Bust point (10" avg) (measure from mid shoulder to mid bust)

B – L = ½” , join L – P
Mark point M in the middle of B- D, joint L,M,E  with a curve line for back armhole.
Mark point N ½” in from M, joint L,N,E  with a curve line for front armhole.

A – P = 1/12th bust
A – Q = back neck depth 2” - 4” , shape L – M with a round curve
A – R = front neck depth 5” – 7” , shape L – O with a neckline of your choice

F  - T = 1/12th bust + ½”, bust line is in line with your back of neck
Dart length should be 5” on both the sides from point T
Dart width should be 1” on both the sides from point T


A-B = Sleeve length on fold + 1” for hem
A-C = 1/4th bust – 1”
(same as kameez A-C)
B-D = A-C and C-D = A-B, Square down A,B,C,D.
C-E = 1/12th Bust +1” (Std) or 3.5"
Join A - E with slant line. 
 B-F = Wrist girth 
Join B-F with straight line.
Join E-F with a slant line.
Allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line) 

Mark point H in the middle of A-E on slant line. 
Mark point G in the middle of A-H on slant line.
Mark point I in the middle of H-E on slant line
Mark point K 1/2" away from H for back armhole. 
Mark point J 1/2" away from G for front armhole.
Mark point L 1/2" away from I for front armhole. 
For Back armhole join A,K,E with a curved line.
For Front armhole join A-J-K-L-E with "S" shape curved line. 

Sewing Instructions:
·         Stitching neckline- as explained in how to prepare neckline facings.
·         Stitch darts and fasten the threads at both the ends.
·         Stitch both the sleeve ending.
·         Stitch both the shoulders together leaving 1/2" for seam.
·         Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, take care to pin front side of sleeve to front side of arm and back accordingly, then machine stitch them together.
·         Draw a curve line from the sides of sleeves till the point where the slit starts, stitch on the curve line, make a little nip at the waist for better shape.
·         Turn the slits inside and stitch.
·         Stitch the bottom of the kameez. 

Note: Remember to finish all the seams to prevent fabric from fraying. If you don’t have interlocking feature in your machine you can use zig zag stitch for interlocking.

Tip: Sewing sleeves can be quite fiddly (because of its shape and bias cut) if you are new to sewing but make a best use of your fingers and try to manipulate the fabric while sewing for a perfect fit, you will get better with practice!


  1. very nice..... pls post saree blouse stitching tutorial

  2. thanks for comment. pls search for sari blouse with yoke, i have already posted it.

  3. This is a wonderful blog! I have been searching the nwt for sewing blogs like this one, great work here.Many thanks. Now my question,when drafting is seam allowance included or does it have to be added ?I am very confused about this point and scared as i dont want to ruin my cloth.

    1. Thanks. You have to add 1" seam allowance.


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