Sunday, 14 August 2011

Sari Blouse Drafting (with yoke)

Sari Blouse with yoke:
Sari Blouse Draft
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(Outline)
A-F = back side, fold full length of blouse +1¼” for hem at back, join A to F.
A-F = front side, fold full length of blouse + ½”, join A to F, cut along the line.
A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼” 
Tip: add ¼" to the shoulder if you have halter/collar neck or you will feel tightness and less ¼" if your neck is deep from backside or your shoulders will drop.
A-C = ¼th bust - 1” 
B-D = A-C
Square down A,B,C,D
C-E = ¼th bust + 1” for ease, join C-E
A-H = 10" avg. measure from mid shoulder to mid bust.
H-I = C-E
F-G = ¼th waist + 1”for ease, join F-G

Join E-G, allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line) 


Tip: If you are sewing blouse for the first time then you can first draft the blouse back and front sides on the paper, then place the draft on the fabric and cut back side of the blouse on folded fabric and do the same with front side.


(Neckline)
A – L = 1/12th bust
A – P = back neck depth 1”-6” , shape L – P with a round curve
A – P1 = front neck depth 5”-6” , shape L – P1 with a neckline of your choice

(Armholes)
B – M = ½” , join L – M
Mark point N in the middle of B- D, joint M,N,E with a curve line for back armhole
Mark point O ½” in from N, joint M,O,E with a curve line for front armhole

(Darts)
X = Bust point, all the darts should point towards the bust point.
H-X = 1/12th bust + ¾” (avg 3½”)
F-U = H-X
I-V = 2”
D-W = 2”
X-Q = 1”
X-R = 1”
X-S = 1”
X-T = 1”
Join T-U with straight line and mark ½” on each side, then join with sloppy line.
Repeat the same procedure with other drats R-H, S-V and Q-W.

(Yoke and Button Stand)
Yoke
F-J = 4”
G-K = 3”
Join J to K with a curved line, separate the yoke part by cutting along the curve. Place that piece on folded fabric and cut another 2 parts fabric for yoke. Cut 2 parts of medium interfacing.
Button Stand or Button Patti
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Cut along the line P1 - F for front opening OR P - F for back opening.
Length = P1 – F + ½” (2 pieces) OR Length = P – F + ½” (2 pieces)
Width = Right side 2” , Left side 2½”

(Sleeves)
See Kameez with darts

Stitching:
Stitch neckline- as explained in how to prepare neckline facings.
Stitch all the darts and fasten the threads at the ends.
Attach yoke/belt, use medium interfacing inside.
Stitch button stands on both sides, right side should be folded inside and hemmed, left side should be extension, right side should overlap the left side.
Hem both the sleeve ending.
Join both the shoulders together.
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, take care to pin front side of sleeve to front side of arm and back accordingly, then machine stitch them together.
Draw a curve line from the sides of sleeves till the end of the blouse, stitch along the curve line. 
Hem the lower edge of the back of blouse.
Finally sew hooks on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing.

14 comments:

  1. hi,

    is it necessary to have interfacing in the yoke? also, does a sari blouse always require a lining?

    ReplyDelete
  2. yes interfacing at the yoke makes the katori sit nicely which gives good shape and lining gives it a neat finish from inside..

    ReplyDelete
  3. What the dotted line indiacates? Is it seam allowance??

    ReplyDelete
  4. can u pls tell how to attach pads

    ReplyDelete
  5. The dotted line for seam allowance is only on the sides and hem. Should there also be seam allowance on the neck, shoulder seam and sleeve area?
    tks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Shoulder seam is added in length, sleeve seam is added in shoulder, and neck does not require separate seam allowance as you have to cut the neck size accordingly.

      Delete
  6. Hi,
    I am trying to stitch blouse for the first time.I came across your blog. I have the following doubt. Please clarify.
    Under (Outline) section, the first Tip says "add ¼th if you have halter/collar neck...". Is it 1/4'' to be added or 1/4 th of the shoulder?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Nice , what about sleeve draft , can draft sleeve too thank you .

    ReplyDelete
  8. Good, show us how to draft the sleeve please thank you .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Please look "kameez with darts" for sleeve drafting.

      Delete
  9. Dear Gazal,
    I tried it as a beginner. Itz amazing. Thanx alot. Big clap for u!!

    ReplyDelete

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