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| Kameez Drafting |
(Outline)
A-J = Fold full length of kameez +1” for hem, join A to J
A-B = ½ shoulder + ¼” (dont add ¼” if back neck is deep)
A-C = ¼th Bust – 1”
B-D = A-C
Square down A,B,C,D
C-E = ¼th Bust + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join C to E
A – F = Nape to waist (see how to take body measurements)
F – G = ¼th waist + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement) OR 1/4th waist + 1/2" for ease + 1/2" for darts.
F – H = 7” Standard.
F – H = 7” Standard.
H – I = ¼th hip + 1” for ease (1"-2” as per fitting requirement), join H-I
J – K = H – I, join J to K for straight kameez.
Join E,G,I,K with a curve at waist, allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)
J1- K1 = A line kameez width (as per requirement) Join J1 to K1 and I to K1.
J1- K1 = A line kameez width (as per requirement) Join J1 to K1 and I to K1.
S = Bust point (10" avg) (measure from mid shoulder to mid bust)
(Armholes)
B – L = ½” , join L – P
Mark point M in the middle of B- D, joint L,M,E with a curve line for back armhole.
Mark point N ½” in from M, joint L,N,E with a curve line for front armhole.
(Neckline)
A – P = 1/12th bust
A – Q = back neck depth 2” - 4” , shape L – M with a round curve
A – R = front neck depth 5” – 7” , shape L – O with a neckline of your choice
(Darts)
F - T = 1/12th bust + ½”, bust line is in line with your back of neck
Dart length should be 5” on both the sides from point T
Dart width should be 1” on both the sides from point T
Sleeves:
A-C = 1/4th bust – 1” (same as kameez A-C)
B-D = A-C and C-D = A-B, Square down A,B,C,D.
C-E = 1/12th Bust +1” (Std) or 3.5"
C-E = 1/12th Bust +1” (Std) or 3.5"
Join A - E with slant line.
B-F = Wrist girth
Mark point G in the middle of A-H on slant line.
Mark point I in the middle of H-E on slant line.
Mark point K 1/2" away from H for back armhole.
Mark point J 1/2" away from G for front armhole.
Mark point L 1/2" away from I for front armhole.
For Back armhole join A,K,E with a curved line.
For Front armhole join A-J-K-L-E with "S" shape curved line.
B-F = Wrist girth
Join B-F with straight line.
Join E-F with a slant line.
Allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)
Mark point H in the middle of A-E on slant line. Join E-F with a slant line.
Allow 1" seam allowance (that will be your cutting line)
Mark point G in the middle of A-H on slant line.
Mark point I in the middle of H-E on slant line.
Mark point K 1/2" away from H for back armhole.
Mark point J 1/2" away from G for front armhole.
Mark point L 1/2" away from I for front armhole.
For Back armhole join A,K,E with a curved line.
For Front armhole join A-J-K-L-E with "S" shape curved line.
Sewing Instructions:
· Stitching neckline- as explained in how to prepare neckline facings.
· Stitch darts and fasten the threads at both the ends.
· Stitch both the sleeve ending.
· Stitch both the shoulders together leaving 1/2" for seam.
· Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, take care to pin front side of sleeve to front side of arm and back accordingly, then machine stitch them together.
· Draw a curve line from the sides of sleeves till the point where the slit starts, stitch on the curve line, make a little nip at the waist for better shape.
· Turn the slits inside and stitch.
· Stitch the bottom of the kameez.
Note: Remember to finish all the seams to prevent fabric from fraying. If you don’t have interlocking feature in your machine you can use zig zag stitch for interlocking.
Note: Remember to finish all the seams to prevent fabric from fraying. If you don’t have interlocking feature in your machine you can use zig zag stitch for interlocking.
Tip: Sewing sleeves can be quite fiddly (because of its shape and bias cut) if you are new to sewing but make a best use of your fingers and try to manipulate the fabric while sewing for a perfect fit, you will get better with practice!
